December 2005; Archive
 
 

Shopping Mall Christmas decorations.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Wednesday, December 21, 2005
In Ethiopia, Christmas is celebrated in mid-January. The little that is done here for December 25th is mainly commercial and aimed at non-Ethiopians: a few decorations in the malls and the big hotels…some parties…You have to remember, by the Ethiopian calendar it’s 1998. That’s why some Rastafarians (many who follow the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian Calendar) believe the end of the world is in 2007: the Ethiopian millennium (In fact, September 11 is New Years here).

 
 
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Taxi Interior #17.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #16.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #15, door handle.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #14, window control.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #13.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Saturday, December 17, 2005
Gerard de Nerval writing to Theophile Gautier at the end of August 1843 (excerpt found in Said's Orientalism):

"I have already lost, Kingdom after Kingdom, province after province, the more beautiful half of the universe, and soon I will know of no place in which I can find a refuge for my dreams; but it is Egypt that I most regret having driven out of my imagination, now that I have sadly placed it in my memory."

 
 
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Taxi Interior #12.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #11, driving up Entoto Street.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Friday, December 9, 2005
At last! I have official permission to photograph ‘most’ parts of Ethiopia, but – don’t worry -- I will continue to bring you taxi interiors.
I recently finished reading Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari. It’s a travel book about Theroux’s trip ‘mostly’ overland from Cairo to Cape Town around the year 2000. Theroux’s aim is to show the reader the everyday Africa, the Africa off the beaten path, away from the tourist routes and the airports. He does so fairly successfully, and I do like many of the personal stories of individuals he meets along the way. However, I disliked the book overall, in large part because I didn’t like Theroux’s point of view - or personality (see other Reviews).
For one, I found him too much of a self-promoter. He frequently talks about the past books he’s published and brings up his famous friends. He shows himself virtuously resisting the temptations of easy sex, while still sexualizing almost every woman he meets. He is disdainful of the weaknesses and foibles of many of the other Western travelers he meets along the way, yet by the end of the book it’s obvious that he succumbs to the same weaknesses and foibles. The inclusion of his own dysfunction would be redeeming except that he never mocks himself nearly as much as other people. (A much much much better example of first person travel journalism is Joe Sacco’s comic Palestine. Sacco draws himself in a rather unflattering light that can only make the reader wince, even as it allows us to recognize ourselves in his weaknesses.)
Even more serious, not all of Theroux’s facts are correct, and he frequently comes to conclusions that (for anyone who has traveled a bit in Africa) are obviously based on insufficient evidence…
It’s this last point I want to address, in particular. I’m in the midst of reading Edward Said’s Orientalism, a dry but interesting study of the West’s treatment of the ‘Orient’ in politics, literature, history, linguistics, ect, ect… I don’t agree with everything Said writes, though many of his points are worthy. The most worthy one I’ve come across so far is the point that gross generalization is characteristic of Orientalism. Indeed Oriental was a term used to talk about not only the Middle East, but also most of Africa and Asia: an enormous number of individual and distinct languages, cultures, religions and histories.
Unfortunately, Said falls into the very trap he disparages and often seems to orientalize Orientalism. He frequently generalizes about the texts he discusses without placing them in an appropriate historical and cultural context. So too does Theroux. His book seems to want to break the reader’s stereotypes about Africa only to replace the old stereotypes with new ones.
Over and over again Theroux tries to draw big conclusions about “Africa” and “Africans,” when he’s really talking about at least eleven individual nations…each with their own cultures, own histories, and own languages. I have never visited most of the countries he writes about, but if Uganda is as different from Tanzania as Mali is different from Ethiopia…I would want to think pretty carefully before drawing the type of conclusions Theroux does about politics, development aid and religion…among other subjects.
I think Said is correct when he points out that one of our (and here I’m talking about myself as an American) greatest weaknesses is our desire to understand and solve problems – especially problems of a foreign nature -- by neatly defining them and putting them into precise categories and orderly columns. But, life is seldom so simple. The solution to reducing AIDS in San Francisco may or may not work in South Africa. Factors that have lifted millions of people in India out of poverty may or may not work the same way in Mali. Or, perhaps they would work in southern Mali, but not Northern Mali, or, perhaps in the cities, but not in the country…
Niger’s food crisis is distinct in the north and in the south of the country. It’s distinct from the food crisis in Malawi and distinct from malnutrition in India. I find it frustrating that someone like Theroux (more or less) argues that Africa should stop getting aid, while someone like Jeffrey Sachs argues that all Africa needs is lots more money, and the World Bank seems to think poverty will be greatly reduced by simply canceling government debt in Africa: each has their own silver bullet that I fear will only go astray... Who is arguing that country A needs more aid money in this particular area, in this particular way, but country B needs stronger political institutions, country C needs more access to markets in Asia, country D should be forced to pay its teachers instead of pay its debt to the World Bank, country E should develop a national health care program, and I havn't a clue what country F needs because I don't know enough about it?
Maybe it's fine the way it is. I guess it's harder to advertise complexity.

 
 
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Taxi Interior #10.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #9.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #8.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Tuesday, December 6, 2005
The taxi interiors continue apace!
I think some of you must think I’m crazy for having such enthusiasm for this project. I mean, there are so many more Important things to photograph in Ethiopia, aren’t there? Aids, hunger, destitutions, overpopulation… I should be shedding light on Africa’s suffering. Well, I’ll probably get around to those before I leave here, but such catastrophes have never been what interested me most about Africa…or anyplace in the world, for that matter. Perhaps it’s one of the main reasons I call myself a documentary photographer and not a photojournalist.
I know quite well, that even though I’m taking pictures of Ethiopia, most of my audience is Western – in one form or another: they either live in Europe and the US or they have a Western education. At the same time I hold a long-standing belief that true change in any country only comes from within. As a result, even if all my pictures were of Africa’s problems, they would seldom change anything about Africa because they would seldom reach those who have the power to act: Malians, Egyptians, Ethiopians.
In the US we call photography that aims to change the world for the betther “concerned photography”. In my opinion, its greatest practitioners are people like Eugene Richards and Korda, photographers whose work has made a difference in their own societies. I’m not saying that photographers shouldn’t venture out of their home countries…when Western news agencies flex their muscle a bit, they can bring otherwise hidden stories to light…Moreover, Americans must know what their govenment's policies lead to abroad -- both the good and bad -- for in our day, the US has an hand in Something everywhere.
However, sometimes what is hidden is more benign than war and poverty…yet, just as important to share. How can Americans make informed decisions about foreign policy in Mali or Ethiopia when their only information is about political delinquency, violence and disease? When they can’t even imagine walking down a street in Bamako or taking a cab in Addis Ababa?
So cabs…yes, why are taxi cabs important? Maybe by looking at my taxi interiors you will learn a little about religion, aesthetics and humor in Ethiopia. Maybe you will learn something from how each taxi driver has individualized his bright blue run-down Russian-made Lada. Then again, maybe I’m just making a mountain out of a mole-hill.

 
 
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Taxi Interior #7.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #6.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #5.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Monday, December 5, 2005
At last, I visited Addis Ababa’s Mercato (market) today. It is a vast, sprawling, conglomeration of tiny store selling live chickens, pounds of garlic, hundreds of bolts of fabric, tons of sheet metal, and countless other necessities of life.

I took very few photos. I felt that during a first visit to such a mercato, photos should be put aside. Mercato needs a particular approach, and I am raking my brain for inspiration: film or digital? Color or black and white? Posed portraits or action shots? A survey of its enormity or a focus on a particular commodity: fabric, or spices, for example?…the options are endless, and it’s easy to get lost, just as it’s easy to get lost down the myriad alleys of the actual market…sucked down into one of the slums that surround the vast complex…

 
 
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Taxi Interior #4.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #3.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #2.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 
 

Taxi Interior #1.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Friday, December 2, 2005
As I promised, here are four taxi interiors for your pleasure. I have to admit that I’m rather enjoying my taxi interior project. I may have to expand its scope. Unfortunately, I’m currently not shooting anything but taxi interiors.
I’m in a catch 22. I’m waiting for my press credential process to reach a conclusion (which has thus far taken: two to three days to get a letter of support from my agency, three days taking forms to the ministry of information, and two days getting a letter of support from my embassy…next is…immigration!! – I’m just hoping I don’t have to leave the country to make my visa situation work out…). I’m also waiting to see if one of the aid agencies here wants to hire me to take some pics for them. If not, I'm not sure it will be worth staying here for long...
All of the above means that I can’t yet embark on any documentary work until my paperwork goes through – hence my innocuous taxi series.
Thus far, no problems taking pictures of taxi interiors. Once I pull out my few phrases of Amharic, I’m golden.

 
 
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Christmas decorations in Addis.

Addis Ababa , Ethiopia.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Monday, November 28, 2005
So my tiny, point and shoot digital camera finally arrived, and I’ve been having quite a bit of fun with it. It’s a challenge to try and get really good photographs with it, but it’s a challenge I’m enjoying. I rather like putting the camera on Auto and getting a surprise when I find out how its numerical formulas have decided to take the picture. There’s something quite contemporary and even edgy about that.
Thus far my experience of Ethiopia has been rather boring, and I’m afraid it will continue to be so until I get press credentials. In the meantime, I’ll do my best to bring you pictures of taxi interiors, supermarkets, and maybe – if you’re lucky – photos of the plaster dwarf statues at the Sherton.

 
 
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The great pyramid.

Giza, Egypt.

PHOTO: Alexandra Huddleston
 
 

Monday, November 21, 2005
I must apologize for my silence, again. It has taken me longer to find a way to hook my computer up to the Internet than I anticipated. Ethiopia is, on first glance, a much more developed country than Niger, but it appears that they are rather behind in the web-access department.
Then there were other delays. When I first arrived, the country was suffering from the government’s violent crackdown on street riots and strikers. I had arrived with a friend, intending to spend my first few weeks traveling around the country. Instead, we ended up fleeing to Egypt for a week – hence the photograph of the great pyramid at Giza.
In Egypt we faithfully followed the tourist route: Giza, the Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo, Islamic Cairo, Luxor, Karnak, Valley of the Kings and Queens. After my recent encounters with famine and riots, I have to say that I had a great time playing the tourist. And I was impressed with Egypt, too – with the level of education, the economic development, the cultural vibrancy…a week was the perfect amount of time to discover tons of great things about Egypt without learning about the negatives. I guess I’ll have to save that for another trip!
So, now I begin again in Ethiopia.

 
 
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